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Power, rebellion and passion: the history of red clothing

Stephanie Vinzens
28-1-2024
Translation: Katherine Martin
Pictures: Christian Walker

Red clothing has been used as a non-verbal means of communication for thousands of years. Let me take you on a journey through the history of the colour red in fashion – from the first ever piece of dyed fabric to the recent red trend.

The most expensive dye in the world

Cardinals and queens

In the centuries that followed, red remained a firm favourite of the ruling classes, exuding dominance and wealth. Monarchs were keen to pose for portraits wearing the colour, from Queen Elizabeth I in her magnificently embroidered red dresses to the Sun King Louis XIV in his red, heeled shoes and tights. Red tights, by the way, were a big hit with 17th-century men. They’re currently back in vogue, albeit mainly in women’s fashion this time.

Revolution and eroticism

When Europe’s monarchies began to crumble at the end of the 18th century, red became increasingly associated with rebellion. During the French and Russian revolutions, the colour was hugely symbolic. This rebellious spirit later found expression in the subcultures of the 20th century, particularly in the punk movement.

Red stimulates our nervous system

The colour red evokes quite a number of strong associations. However, there’s one common thread running through the colour’s millennia-long history: intense emotions. Andrea Krieg explains: «Highly saturated red tones are loud. They take up a lot of space. This makes them a powerful way of communicating nonverbally, attracting attention and triggering strong emotions.»

Long-wave colours, especially red, activate the sympathetic nervous system and kick our bodies into gear. They can make you feel more sociable, extroverted and energetic. Forbes-Bell also references studies demonstrating that red clothing can have a positive effect on athletes’ performance and make people appear more attractive.

Showy, but still a classic

As in-your-face as red might be, the colour is an undeniable classic. Despite its showiness, it’s currently being used as a statement colour by minimalist brands such as The Row and Ferragamo. Even designer Yohji Yamamoto, who works predominantly with black, occasionally adds bright red accents. The fact that red is the colour of choice for a man who loathes trends speaks volumes about its timeless character.

In these uncertain times, is this the very reason why red is enjoying a fashion revival? «I can imagine that a classic red radiates a certain sense of stability and security for many people,» Krieg says. «Bright red is an easy colour to understand. We all know what it means. It’s a clear, familiar tone.»

These two books served as a source for this article:

This article was created as part of our Focus Week on the colour red. Seven days, seven articles. You can read more about this and all the articles published so far here:

Header image: Christian Walker

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Has endless love for shoulder pads, Stratocasters and sashimi, but a limited tolerance for bad impressions of her Eastern Swiss dialect.


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