Pregnancy skincare: which beauty routines are safe?
Is retinol pregnancy-safe? Are natural cosmetics risk-free for you and your unborn child? Is this a bad time for professional treatments? Which beauty routines are fine with a baby on the way? Here’s what an expert says.
«Should I still be doing that?» If you’re pregnant for the first time, this question will likely be on your mind a lot. And it applies to just about every aspect of life. At least, that’s what I’m seeing in expectant friends. Food, exercise, home remedies, medicine. Everything’s questioned. Even established skincare routines are scrutinised. And rightly so, says Doctor Maya Wolfensperger in my interview with her (page in German). Dr Wolfensperger is a dermatologist at Zurich City Hospital on Europaallee and knows what expectant mothers need to keep in mind when it comes to beauty routines.
Some skincare products state that they’re unsuitable during pregnancy. How come?
Dr Maya Wolfensperger, specialist in dermatology and venereology: Certain ingredients can enter the body through the skin and therefore theoretically affect the unborn child. This is problematic if it’s potentially harmful to the foetus, contains hormone-disrupting ingredients or simply has insufficient data to know if it’s risky. However, these health warnings are often just precautionary, as conducting studies to examine the ingredients’ effects on pregnant women wouldn’t be ethical.
Harmful to the foetus sounds serious, though.
«Harmful to the foetus» or teratogenic in medical terms, refers to substances or factors that can disrupt the development of an unborn child.
Which active ingredients should pregnant women be cautious about?
You should definitely avoid retinoids (vitamin A supplements), high-dose salicylic acid, hydroquinone and certain essential oils, as they can induce labour – rosemary or sage oil, for example. The list goes on. It’s best for expectant parents to ask their midwife or gynaecologist. Embryotox, a German-language page operated by Charité Berlin, is a great source of information on the effects different types of medication have if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding.
What’s hydroquinone, for example, I’ve never heard of it? Hydroquinone is an active ingredient commonly used in skin-lightening creams. As pigmentation changes can sometimes occur during pregnancy, pregnant women may want to use these products.
Is the skin more sensitive to light during pregnancy?
Yes. That’s why there’s a higher risk of developing age spots. This hyperpigmentation (melasma) can develop on the face, belly and nipples but is harmless. If you’re prone to sunburn, you should use a quality sunscreen with SPF 50 every day without fail. Mineral filters are often preferred during pregnancy, but they’re not a must. If you’ve already developed hyperpigmentation, it can be treated with an azelaic acid cream, which is also commonly used to treat pregnancy acne.
What’s pregnancy acne?
Another common skin condition in pregnant women. It’s triggered by high levels of the male sex hormone androgen. An azelaic acid or benzoyl peroxide cream can help with this, too. Both are safe to use during pregnancy.
Sounds like the skin undergoes quite some changes when you’re expecting a child.
Definitely. It’s triggered by hormonal changes. Typical symptoms include increased sebum production and blood flow as well as drier, more sensitive skin. Obviously, these can vary depending on the individual and their skin type. The list of symptoms is long.
What about professional treatments? Is it safe to keep up microneedling, laser treatments, or chemical peels during pregnancy?
I strongly advise against it, as pregnancy comes with an increased risk of infection and skin that’s more sensitive.
Why is there an increased risk of infection?
As half of the unborn child’s genetic material stems from the father, the immune system could technically register it as «foreign». That’s why the body suppresses or modifies certain immune responses so that the foetus isn’t rejected. These adjustments primarily affect the balance of the immune system. Certain immune defences are less strong during this time, making pregnant women more susceptible to certain infections or more likely to develop severe cases of illness.
What skincare routines would you recommend for stretch marks?
Stretch marks usually form as a result of significant weight gain. But whether you get them in the first place also depends on your genetic predisposition. Regularly applying moisturising oils or creams helps strengthen the skin’s barrier, which can help prevent the marks to some extent. This also helps relieve dryness and itching, which is common.
Are products certified as natural automatically considered safer?
«Natural» doesn’t always equal safe. Natural ingredients can cause allergies or, in some cases, affect hormones. What’s decisive are the ingredients, not the labelling.
What about make-up? Are certain products best avoided?
I’d recommend using non-comedogenic products. These products don’t clog your pores, are gentle on the skin and reduce the risk of acne.
I was speaking to a friend who wasn’t sure what to look out for in deodorant, hand soap, shampoo and conditioner, perfume and body sprays. Are there general rules pregnant women should follow?
There are no strict rules in that sense. To be on the safe side, though, I’d stick to mild, non-irritating products. If you have sensitive skin, I’d also hold back with perfume.
Do the same skincare rules apply if you’re breastfeeding?
They’re similar, but less strict.
In what way?
The main difference lies in how product ingredients enter the child’s system. During pregnancy, the foetus is fed directly through the placenta. Later on – if the child is nursed – it’s fed breast milk, which often absorbs product ingredients in smaller amounts if at all. Essential oils and cosmetic creams can generally be used if you’re breastfeeding, with the exception of the skin on the breasts. In other words, it’s particularly important to be careful with products that might come into contact with your infant.
Are there any apps or platforms where parents can get more information?
I find the German-language page Swissmom.ch a solid and informative website. It features everything you need to know about pregnancy and childbirth.
As a massive Disney fan, I see the world through rose-tinted glasses. I worship series from the 90s and consider mermaids a religion. When I’m not dancing in glitter rain, I’m either hanging out at pyjama parties or sitting at my make-up table. P.S. I love you, bacon, garlic and onions.
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