The 3 most common autumn pruning mistakes
15-10-2026
Translation: Katherine Martin
Pictures: Darina Schweizer
Whether it’s starting too early, overdoing the cutting or using unsuitable shears, a lot can go wrong when you’re pruning plants. I’ve made all of these mistakes myself.
«That’s a sign!» I shouted to my husband, noticing that our shrubby cinquefoil had started losing its leaves. «Time for a new haircut!» However, experience has taught me that my gut feeling is unreliable when applied to gardening.
So, just to be on the safe side, I checked some reliable online plant encyclopedias – «Mein schöner Garten» and Lubera (both in German) – before grabbing my shears. That way, I managed to avoid the most common autumn pruning mistakes:
1. Starting too early
The right time to start pruning will depend on the type of plant. When it comes to shrubs that flower in summer, your best bet is to start in late winter (from February) or early spring (up to the end of March). Spring-blooming plants such as forsythia and lilac, on the other hand, aren’t usually pruned until after they’ve blossomed (between April and June).
2. Overdoing it
Not all plants can tolerate heavy pruning in autumn. With some types of plants, cutting off diseased shoots does the job. Sometimes, dried-up stems and leaves can protect sensitive parts of a plant from frost and provide shelter for insects.
Here’s what to do with which plants in autumn (not an exhaustive list):
Prune back heavily: Harvested blackberry canes, dead foliage from perennial peonies and, depending on the species or variety, harvested canes from autumn-fruiting raspberries. However, you can actually prune varieties with new shoots bearing fruit back to ground level in late winter (up to February).
Prune slightly: Only prune hedges if the species and time of year allow it. For lavender and other Mediterranean subshrubs, all you should cut away in autumn is the spent flower heads. Don’t be too heavy-handed with your pruning. You can save the real pruning for spring (March through April). When that season rolls around, pruning keeps the plant compact and encourages strong growth.
Don’t prune: Ornamental grasses, many perennials and garden hydrangeas. You shouldn’t routinely prune roses, clematis, forsythia or lilacs in autumn either. When it comes to forsythia and lilac, it’s better to leave the pruning for after they bloom. As for butterfly bushes, prune them heavily in late winter (from February) or early spring (up to March). By then, you’ll also be able to prune garden hydrangeas. Evergreen shrubs and trees such as cherry laurel, yew, boxwood and holly generally don’t need pruning in autumn.
The quick rule of thumb? Prune spring-blooming plants after they blossom and summer-blooming plants in late winter. In autumn, just cut away any diseased or dead parts of the plant.
3. Using the wrong tools
Last year, I did my autumn pruning with regular household scissors (rather than green-fingered, I was simply green at that point). Ever since my visit to Felco, a garden shears and pruning shears manufacturer, I’ve known that dull blades can crush shoots, hinder wound healing and promote disease. That’s why it’s best to use sharp, clean tools that are suitable for the task at hand.
By the way, you shouldn’t cover up delicate plants until just before the first bout of frosty weather. To put it simply, pruning plants is often like getting a perm (going by what older ladies tell me).
Minor trim first, then cover up. The real haircut happens later on. That’s certainly the treatment our shrubby cinquefoil will be getting.
What pruning mistakes have you made? Do you have any other tips for me? Let me know in the comments.
Darina Schweizer
Senior Editor
Darina.Schweizer@digitecgalaxus.chI love everything with four legs or roots – especially my rescue cats Jasper and Joy and my collection of succulents. I’m happiest following the scent of stories about police dogs and cat groomers – or cultivating thoughtful tales in garden flea markets and Japanese gardens.
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